Imagine a country that has everything necessary for making whisky: robust agriculture, pure water, and centuries of distilling know-how—plus, its citizens love to drink the stuff. You probably aren’t thinking of France. Yet from the jagged rocky shores of Brittany to the steep slopes of the Alps, from verdant Alsace-Lorraine to the patchwork fields and vineyards of Cognac, whisky is flowing throughout the Gallic nation.
The French have long been the world leaders in per-capita scotch consumption, gulping down 178 million bottles in 2017, but the country’s homegrown whisky industry emerged in the 1980s, and has taken off only in...