Inchgower is sometimes said to be the Manzanilla of Speyside . Here’s one to prove its light, often slightly quirky reputation: Inchgower 1989 bottled by The Whisky Agency .

Inchgower 29 yo 1989 (51,3%, The Whisky Agency 2019, ex-bourbon hogshead)

Nose: quite naked. We find tart candy and grassy notes, some distant bourbonny oak. Hints of oil paint and clay or putty. Lemon and grapefruit, green tea and lemongrass. Quite elegant, but not a sexy profile. Mouth: much sweeter than expected. Dextrose, sweet lemon juice and apples, then also sweet oak and light floral notes. Really unusual. Becoming...