I adored some older 1970s Inchgower but I haven’t found any true highflyers among younger bottlings. We’ll give it another shot with this Inchgower 2002 bottled by Gordon & MacPhail in their Connoisseurs Choice range.

Inchgower 2002 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 2015, refill sherry hogshead)

Nose: good, quite rich with fresh oranges and rhubard, as well as dried fruits (sultanas, dried apple pieces, fruit cake). Floral honey. All this on a background of cereals and whiffs of old wood. Mouth: sweet but at the same time a bit thin. Raisins, toffee, orange peels and yellow apples....